The holy grail of any technician is to obtain very dark and intense Russian volume poses, even if it may seem simple at first glance, obtaining the effect of darkness remains complicated for a large number of lash artists.
Here are our tips for achieving perfectly black Russian volumes!
1. Narrow bouquets
To maximize your chances of achieving a dark effect, it is important to prioritize narrow bouquets, rather than wide bouquets.
Narrow. Wide
The large/wide bouquet should be avoided, as it creates a fuller effect, this bouquet adapts better to sparse bases to hide potential holes.
2. Working with rows and mastering the D mix
Working with rows allows you to achieve both a very black application and a perfect line where no lash protrudes. To do this, you need to determine the number of rows of lashes your client has, then apply different sizes depending on the number of rows they have.
For example: your client has three rows of eyelashes, you will apply 11mm on the row closest to the mucous membrane (the lowest), 10mm on the middle one and 9mm on the top one (closest to the eyelid). This way, your extensions will fit into each other like a Russian doll and this will create darkness.
In addition to this, for an intense and even application for some clients, you should mix 3D and 4D for example. Indeed, if your client has fewer lashes in the inner/outer corners, then do 4D in these areas and 3D in the middle.
3. Fill in all lashes
Darkness also comes from whether or not you fill in all the lashes.
The most important thing is to fill in each lash in the bottom row, the one closest to the mucous membrane. This is the row that the client sees first, and if you don't fill it in, the application can't be very black.
4. The Extra-black collection
Choosing your extensions is essential to put all the chances on your side!
That's why YAHNA has taken the time to release the best Russian volume range possible. The images speak for themselves:
We therefore advise you to use the EXTRA-BLACK COLLECTION in 0.07 in order to obtain your best Russian volume!
80% of the time your Russian volume applications don't turn out black because you're using the wrong lash fiber. Grab your macro zoom and take a picture of your strip. If it looks like the right strip, then it's time to invest in some good lash palettes.
5. The Fan Rescue
The lack of darkness can also come from the fact that your bouquets tend to close when you place them on your clients' natural lashes. This is why we have brought out the FAN RESCUE , this booster is applied to the lash band before application and acts as a glue "blocker". In other words, when you dip your bouquet in the glue, the FAN RESCUE prevents the glue from rising up into the bouquet and therefore it closes.By placing well-open bouquets you will inevitably gain in density and therefore in darkness.